The pinot lover who lives in or around Portland gets to experience a summer twice. One while it happens. And again two and a half years later, when the best single vineyard wines have been released.

We're two and a half years out from 2021, so now we're tasting this extraordinary summer. What was extraordinary about it? In late June I flew to California to meet my boss who I'd been working remote for. Spent a nice weekend hiking and eating in the Bay Area. Then I came home to the inferno. Walking upstairs with my bags, the thermometer in the shade showed 115. 115! And not much cooler in the apartment: Like a lot of folks, this was the year that decided it for us on replacing window units with HVAC.

What would a heat have in late June / early July do to the grapes?

A heat wave in late June, over a month before veraison, hits developing berries that are tiny and green. The vines respond in a number of ways - I won't pretend to understand the biochemical specifics, some combination of smaller fruit and thicker skins - the sum of which result in more tannin in the wines.

Talking to winemakers, this lines up with what they've told me: The heat hit so early that what it did was shut down grape berry growth, resulting in a year with a lot of small fruit which actually provide this concentrated flavor and dark color.

My favorite wines & usual suspects from the big, expressive, intense 2021 vintage:

• 2021 Thomas - Always intense, the 2021 has tertiary notes already and should be really interesting
• 2021 Cameron Clos Electique - Really shows the elements of the year
• 2021 Cameron Abbey Ridge - Always a treat comparing the two Cameron single vineyards - this is more accessible now, I suspect the CE will become the more complex and interesting wine by ~2028
• 2021 J.K. Carriere Vespidae - Always interesting, this year's reminded me of the Clos Electrique in the sense of a part of parts that I'm guessing will come together nicely in 5-7 years. I'm a big fan of Jim's wines most years but especially the burlier vintages like 2018 and this one.
• 2021 Evesham Wood Temperance Hill - Stopped by a few weeks ago to taste their 2021s, this was my favorite. I find Eola-Amity and especially Temperance Hill Vineyard wines especially interesting in these vibrant vintages and this didn't disappoint. Pure red savory intensity.
• 2021 Goodfellow Willamette Valley - The 2021 is especially good if you like low-noted, sinewy, Nuits-Saint-George style pinot with savory notes and nice acidity on the finish. Ridiculous value at around $20.

I'm overweight 2021 relative to the last few years, buying more than any vintage since 2018 to both drink now and enjoy for the long run.